“Through hail or high water …”
And we crossed both.
This picture sums up how I felt about being the minister at my friends’ wedding, and how I felt about their wedding: a five-day backpacking trip through Kings Canyon called the Rae Lakes Loop.
The wedding was amazing, but I can’t tell you how to re-create that (okay, I can, keep reading). But I can tell you how to hike Rae Lakes.
We did the five-day loop, starting at Road’s End and going counter-clockwise. Apparently most people do it clockwise, but that seems dumb because the pass is much easier coming this way. We did, however, miss out on much of the Paradise Valley scenery due to the rainstorm we hiked through (more below). It’s a challenging hike. But it’s worth every difficult step!
Day 1.
Hike. Camp by a roaring stream. Go to bed early because the mosquitoes are so bad you can’t keep them off of you. Think of your co-worker’s prescient advice: don’t forget bug spray!
We’re too high up in the mountains, you scoff. Wrong.
Be grateful for your backpack that you love. It’s the women’s Mountainsmith Juniper 55L, which they don’t make anymore but is still available on Amazon, or the newer Lariat is similar. Mountainsmith rocks (it’s obviously a CO-based company).
Day 2.
Hike to Charlotte Lake. Climb switchbacks. It’s an extra 1.5 miles. It’s worth it, because you will camp on a lake.
One of your fellow hikers has brought jelly bellies and gummy bears. Consider him a genius, because you don’t really feel like eating much but you will always eat jelly bellies.
Be grateful you purchased Tevas. They may be dirty hippie shoes but they are the best things in the world to put on your feet when you get to camp. (Consider American flag Tevas.)
Day 3.
Glen Pass is Sketch.
This is the big day. You get up early so the snow will still be cold, and you will hike through snow and ice and slush and skree, but because you learned to hike high elevation in Colorado, you’re like a fish in water or duck on a pond or pig in shit—some happy animal who feels right at home. But maybe your friend isn’t like that, so while her hubs-to-be holds onto her with a rope, you tell her where to step her feet. We’re all making it up this mountain, dangit.
We did it in mid-June, and there were questions about our ability to cross Glen Pass (11,926 feet)—but we did it. With crampons. And hiking poles.
The best part? Sliding down the snow at the end of the descent.
Then the rain comes and you lose your friends and hunker down at a ranger station and consider how much of a felony breaking into a ranger station is before the rain slows and you rush to set up camp by another beautiful alpine lake while it’s mostly still raining. After a two-hour nap, there’s snow on the ground but the skies have cleared and you can host a rehearsal dinner party, mainly because you’re tired of carrying cans of champagne.
Day 4.
Wake up to snow on everything, but the sun is shining. Set up a garage sale of drying tent pieces. Marry some people.
Rain.
For the love pack a rain coat. And buy the backpack rain cover. A trash bag won’t actually cut it for this long. Though your poncho over the backpack works pretty well.
As soon as the people are married, it starts to rain. And doesn’t stop for all day. Hike 13 miles in the rain. Cross rivers swollen with rain and snow melt. Wade through most of the crossings.
Catch a glimpse of bear cubs high up in a tree trying to escape the rain, and temporarily freak out before spotting the mama a few branches down.
Set up camp, in less rain this time. Nap again. Wake up to a roaring fire.
Hang out by the fire, still wet, but at least warm.
Day 5.
Get the eff out.
Maybe your shoes and socks are still wet. Oh well.
For the first time all trip, see allllllll the day hikers. All are impressed with your trip. You, however, just want a shower. And a cold beer. Stop to take some great pictures. But don’t linger—there’s pizza waiting somewhere.
The Wedding
Matt and Natalie are an incredibly special set of friends for me, in that I am constantly their third wheel—right on in to their marriage certificate. But they never, ever, make me feel like I am. They’re the most inspiring couple I’ve had the pleasure of spending time with: independently awesome and better together. They are patient with each other in the most surprising of ways, completely comfortable with the other’s shortcomings and supportive in the moments they need each other most. I love them.
My Most Awesome Favorite Gear
Big Agnes Slater 2L+ tent
Mountainsmith Juniper 55L
Columbia Men’s hiking pants. No, women’s hiking pants are not long enough. Even the longs.
Graced By Grit Tech Top long sleeve. Quick-dry, surprisingly both warm and cool. Kept mosquitoes at bay. (get 20% off with code GBGXOPRO229)
LifeStraw water bottle (yeah, basically obsessed)
Swipe deodorant wipes
GoMacro bars – breakfast of champions
Mount Hagen Fair Trade instant coffee sticks – I swear these are so good I started drinking them as my regular morning coffee when I’m in a hurry (I bought them from LuckyVitamin.com)
Wal-mart Minestrone – $1.09 dried soup + $.99 Bumble Bee flavored tuna packets for protein … $7 cheaper than MountainHouse meals, and just as good. The Minestrone was a clear fave of all who tried it.
Athleta Chatarunga shorts – long my favorite shorts, I wore these under my hiking pants in case I ever wanted to wear short shorts (I didn’t), but they actually served as fantastic underwear. Less stinky, performance fabric, relatively quick dry when I gave them the lake laundry treatment.
Other packing list items worth mentioning:
Nike Dri-Fit wool long-sleeve
Graced By Grit Delicious tanks (2) – wore under everything (get 20% off with code GBGXOPRO229)
Darn Tough hiking socks
SmartWool hiking socks
Salomon Trail Runners – we don’t need no stinking hiking boots! srsly, I am a firm believer in trail runners being superior to hiking boots for most people in most conditions.
Luci light <3
REI Co-op packable down – a steal at $50
Things I bought immediately upon return:
2-ounce bobo shovel
Mountainsmith rain cover
Columbia rain jacket
I’ve been promising this post for a long time … thanks for waiting!! This hike is seriously phenomenal, you should do it. Whoever you are, whoever is reading, DO IT!
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